North Sikkim
Words like lachung and Yumthang were just tongue twisters for me and difficult to speak till i actually set my eyes looking at beauty of the eastern himalayas around me. Yumthang Valley is a grazing pasture surrounded by the Himalayan mountains in the North Sikkim district of Sikkim, India. It is at an elevation of 3,564 metres (11,800) above sea level at a distance of 150 km from the state capital Gangtok.
It is popularly known as 'Valley of Flowers'. It is also home to the Shingba Rhododendron Sanctuary, and has over twenty-four species of the rhododendron, the state flower. A tributary of the river Teesta flows past the valley and the town of Lachung, the nearest inhabited centre. Yumthang is closed between December and March due to heavy snowfall.Lachung has been described as the "most picturesque village of Sikkim.
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| state tree of Sikkim rhododendron nevium |
After a long journey from Mumbai to Kolkatta to bagdogra ,we -Dr Kiran Marthak,Ameeta,Roda, and myself settled down in Sarovar hotel at siliguri. hardly had we settled down when unfortunately there were some local community clashes in west Bengal and Vandan our tour Leader decided that we must leave Siliguri 4.00a.m.next day before the Bandh in the area, begins.
WISE DECISION.
Day 1
Left early for lachung .tortuous roads and boulders jutting out as though they are about to fall , but the snow peaked mountains and numerous waterfalls made the route very exciting .
Birding en route as usual.
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| various waterfalls en route |
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| Teesta river |
Settled comfortable in our jeeps(4) together we left for Lachung.Our first stop was Rangpo,where we ate breakfast.Rangpo is the entrance to sikkim and all permits to be taken at this point. See this Teesta river joining us (all along our route) Rhesus Macques on the highway were given fruits by the tourists. Very scenic and tortuous route with narrow roads and dangerous rocks jutting out as though any minute there could be a land slide took my breathe away,But I kept myself occupied by enjoying the many waterfalls and snow capped mountains which came into view after our Lunch halt.Our lunch halt was at Mandan. Small town where the entire 18 of us joining the camp met Mrs Usha Lachungpa,and her very cute Mother
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| FIRST BOARD TO OUR DESTINATION |
Day2We took thLeft after breakfast for shingba rhododendron sanctuary which is 11,000 feet above .We took the yum thang river trail. Morning birding was not much but Usha taught us about different rhododendrons - red, pink and nevium the state tree .we saw a group of yaks,now domesticated.After lunch there were rufous vented tits building nest in old hole of a tree. Coal tits and long tailed minivets playing in the trees. The most common birds seen were white collared blackbirds and blue whistling thrushes .Himalayan buzzard and himalayan grey backed shrike seen in the valley of lachung .On the walk in the sanctuary spotted blue fronted redstart by Usha. I missed seeing this bird. A little walk ahead wonderful little Eurasian wren was in and out of a huge boulder. Nice lifer !! Rhododendron trees laden with trailing lichens provide good habitat for avifauna and flora.Shingba Rhododendron Sanctuary is home to rhododendron niveum,the state tree.
Near the entrance of the sanctuary gate eurasian craig martins about 15 in a group were flying around
Day3
Left for yumthang valley at 12,000 ft above sea level .Straddling the Yumthang river the sanctuary which lies beyond the frontier village of lachung in north sikkim. is characterized by temperate silver fir -rhododendron forest at the head of the narrow lachung valley surrounded by towering snowy mountains.
Was good sunny day and the large hawk cuckoo was continuous calling brain fever,brain fever,brain fever......
Birds seen in pairs were
Red billed coughs , black bulbuls ,white winged grosbeaks
Felt very elated since a whole flock of snow pigeons,feeding on the river bed.suddenly Amita screamed loudly on spotting the Ibissbill pair in perfect camouflage on riverbed. Dr Salim Ali had written that Ibisbill's breeding ground is yum thang and I was looking forward to adding this on my lifer list. Yumthang meadows adjacent to yumthang -lachung river provide shingle beds for ibisbill. Meadows for yak,pipits,and wagtails feeding areas.The Enigmatic caterpillar fungus Cordyceps Sinesis which is highly prized species is found in very restricted patches at the upper limits of the sanctuary,,is recognized as forest produce in the river ,the exotic Brown trout ..salmo trutta is found.Rhododendron juniper and ground flora such as Primula,Potentilla,Aconitum and other alpine herbs are seen.
There were other tourists who were trout fishing. Some other tourists were taking a bath in hot springs. Even little Anurag and Mr Malli took a bath in special bathrooms made for hot spring water bathes. Snow fights and Snowman was made by Anurag and his sister
Again on way back coal tits and rufous vented tits and rusty flanked treecreeper in mixed hunting party.
All in all good birding day.
Day 4
As usual we left after breakfast to the highest point-yumesangdong, 15,500 feet above sea level. Zero point . We were told to prepare ourselves for altitude sickness and more cold weather. Zero point is a point from where there is no man made road. Called Zadong. This is above tree line and so I did not expect much birding . The pathway was narrow and snow walled on either side .The feeling was very different as though I have scaled the mountain peaks and touching the sky. HEAVEN ON EARTH .!! Little Anurag made a lovely snow castle and all of us 18 played in the snow like small children.
On the return mountain finches,yellow billed coughs,white throated dipper,red billed coughs were the few birds sighted.
Lunch at yumthang cottage was simple and cloudy weather with mild snowfall took my morning spirits away. Just as I was about to settle in my bolero Our bird spotter my sister Amita screamed again. Rushing out saw himalayan bluetail, Darjeeling woodpeckers,male and female, treecreepers, long tailed minivets, and rosy pipit and a group of 5 -6 raptors which I could not identify since light was fading fast. On the drive back stopped to see a group of 50 plain mountain finches ,which the driver Dorji told us descend down from high up and it is a sign that snowfall is going to be heavy.
I would like to add a little about my driver Dorji. He was an army man for 22 years and trained the commandos which had come to mumbai during the Taj,Oberoi 26/11 terror attack . Now a civilian,and a superb driver. I felt very safe in those dangerous roads with Mr Dorji's driving. Very happy the days birding
Day5
Every day starts with much discussions with drivers,Vandan,and Mr Ganden about sitting arrangements in jeeps. Today was no different but with lots of adieus and farewell to all ,settle down in my jeep .Long journey ahead and bright sunny day ,large cuckoo loud enough and suddenly verditar flycatchers spotted every now and then on wires we began our descent to Rango again. Near the big waterfall I did a little birding where I spotted Rufus fronted babblers with green backed tits and coal tits feeding frenzy.
Spotted Spangled drongoes and black bulbuls at Mandan , where we bid farewell to Mr Ganden .
Reaching Rangpo and after Lunch we Rodu, Amita, Dr kiran and myself left to go to kalimpong for 2 days stay in North East Bengal. Would end this blog that very scenic region with less bird activity since weather did not give permission for it.Remaining story in pictures.
A few birds pictures,which My husband Kiran Marthak captured on his camera
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| Eurasian wren |
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| Eurasian dove |
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| black redstart |
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| red billed choughs |
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| ibisbill -see the camoflage |
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| snow pigeons |
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| green backed tit |
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| blue whistling thrush |
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| plumbeous water redstart |
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| verditer flycatcher |
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| white collared blackbird |
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| Rufus sibia. |
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| rosy pipit |
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| plain mountain finches |
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| black bulbuls |
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darjeeling woodpecker male
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| himalayan bluetail |
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| plain mountain finch |
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| white capped redstart |
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| blue rock thrush female |
these following pictures were taken at Siliguri TEESTA BARRAGE
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| pied kingfisher |
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great cormorant
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| lesser Kestrel |
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| ORANGE BELLIED SQUIRREL |
some interesting flowers:
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| Rhododendron flower |
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| primulas |
some interesting moments captured are as follows:
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| snow man made by little Anug |
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| snow castle made at zero point |
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| sweet juicy watermelons |
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| playing in snow |
last 2 pictures talk about zero point together and resting after a meal
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| zero point gathering |
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| resting after juicy watermelons |
SEASONS HOTEL BIDDING FAREWELL
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| BRIGHT SUNNY MORNING -APRIL 15 2013 (Mr Ganden was the photographer so missing ) |
# posted by KETKI @ 4:13 AM
After a long journey from Mumbai to Kolkatta to bagdogra ,we -Dr Kiran Marthak,Ameeta,Roda, and myself settled down in Sarovar hotel at siliguri. hardly had we settled down when unfortunately there were some local community clashes in west Bengal and Vandan our tour Leader decided that we must leave Siliguri 4.00a.m.next day before the Bandh in the area, begins. 
